dimanche 24 février 2013

Thi-Thi (from Oskar)


















Who are you ?

I'm Thi-Thi Nguyen, creative thinker & co-founder of Oskar (weareoskar.com).

Back in 2001, I just got hired at an independent ad agency in the heart of Brussels (Belgium). I was 23 years old and just finished my MBA in Audiovisual & Multimedia and my Journalism & Communication studies at the University (ULB).

It didn’t take me long to get my first job as a creative and copywriter. I just opened the Yellow Pages, section “advertising companies”. Tractor was one of the first companies to reply to my application emails. I got other job interviews as well but on the day of my appointment with Tractor, my guts instantly told me: “This is it! I love this working space, the 100 square meters terrace and this area full of designers shops and cool bars…”

I felt lucky to enter this exciting creative world and during the interview with my soon-to-be boss, he actually didn’t pay much attention to my resume or to my silly student portfolio but he was impressed by my straightforward personality. I wasn’t that usual sexy chick who was dressed up to attract attention or that girly sweetie girl you want to tease… I was the girl with very short hair, thick spectacles, wearing a red turtleneck sweater, low waist dark jeans pants and gold sneakers. But what did really surprise him were probably my strong handshake and my way of looking straight to the eyes when speaking to him.

I really felt lucky because I got a very good deal without having any experience in this field (advertising). Furthermore, I didn’t have to do any internship beforehand and my boss seemed to be a super crazy guy (former singer and musician, self made man, half Indonesian, half Dutch) which whom I’ll have a memorable working relationship from 2001 to 2009.

In 2009, my boyfriend (Arnaud de Harven, fashion and advertising photographer) and I, we decided to come to Vietnam to get a new life and work experience in Asia. When I left my job, my boss was probably upset but he totally understood my decision to see what was happening in Asia. Back then he was himself interested by Asia. His Indonesian roots and my Vietnamese roots were also the reason why we were so close in our way of seeing things.

When we arrived in Vietnam, I was again very lucky and got hired by Phibious as a creative thinker. Again, the nice open space, the good vibes I could feel from my first visit and interview, everything was nice. Of course, I was very stressed the first year. A new working process, a new market, a new creative position with a slightly different role, … Plus I had to work in English and Vietnamese which was a first for me who used to work mainly in French and Flemish. But I was happy to be able to work on big international clients such Coca-Cola and Vespa. This was a very big change for me; I was now mainly working on the non-traditional marketing (viral, outdoor, experiential, digital).

My boyfriend on the other hand, started a bit slowly in Vietnam since he was working as a freelance photographer. But after 1 year, he has been very busy with demands from different ad agencies and local fashion and interior magazines.

We actually used to work together as a creative team for fashion shoots (published in Victoire magazine) several months before our arrival in Vietnam. Another very fulfilling experience for me during my career, so fulfilling that I could realize after 3 years in Vietnam that it was time for me to leave the advertising stage and try something on my own. This is the reason why we left Vietnam at the end of 2012 and went back to Belgium in order to work again together, but this time, officially as a creative team specializing in photography, creative thinking, production and styling/art direction. 

Definitely a new start, a new experience. And finally, when looking back to those years, we are happy with this life full of nice memories, sometimes stressful, admittedly, but still, this Vietnamese adventure was full of rich experiences and encounters that allowed us to start anew back in Belgium, under the name of OSKAR.


What are your influences ?

My influences ? I find them everywhere : In the street, traveling, going out, on the web, magazines, hanging out with my friends and other people, but also by observing young people born in the nineties who grew up since then. For me they will always be a source of inspiration since they were born in a digital age... They are the «digital natives» as we say in English. They know and master new digital medias, they are way more «out there» about fashion and the way they dress. I love observing and analyzing them. I learn a lot from it.

I would say that my world is probably more masculine than feminine, since I've always been a tomboy... I like comics, manga, animation movies, video games, guy's flicks (western and yakuza themed), masculine cars, experimental music, skateboarding, BMX, pool, ping pong, minimal and design tattoos, the Yves St-Laurent style (who was the first one to invent smokings for women)

I really don't like cheesy-cute and corny stuffs. But it doesn't mean I'm lacking feminine sensitivity, but let's just say that my idea of femininity is a bit different. for instance, I'd definitely prefer a subtle love story "a la" Dolls or Hana-Bi (Takeshi Kitano), than a chick flick like Titanic, Nothing Hill or Bridget Jones....


What is the role of Fashion ?

I don't really think fashion has really a role per se. It's more about selling dreams to people. (Which is not that bad, since everybody need to dream), but in the meantime I really don't think I know enough about that topic to have the pretentiousness to say anything about it.

I like fashion my own way and I'm having fun imagining new ideas for shootings I work on with my partner Arnaud, and that's about it. Actually I must say that I'm having more fun and I evolve way more being an art and style director for fashion shootings compared to when I was working in the advertising industry. Fashion is a more upscale world, more open, with less hang-ups, and way less mainstream than the advertising world. That's probably why it suits me better.


Can you describe your style ?

I don't really have a style per se, but I like mixing them, finding a suitable combination and change it after awhile. It's kind of a cyclical thing for me, I guess.

Let's say that for now I feel good in a denim, boyfriend pants or carrot pants. Always a bit baggy, with the hem folded all the way up above my ankles, generally with a small collar shirt buttoned all the way up, big ski socks, sneakers or Converse, a hooded parka or an over-sized perfecto, a big scarf wrapped a few times around my neck and a big beanie

I probably look quite similar to a typical Tokyo chick, in between preppy, tomboy and androgynous.


Any addiction ?

Shopping, consuming, collecting... It's a real addiction, or a curse... When I see something I like, I need to have it right away, whatever the cost. In a way it's like someone who has a gambling problem, but for me it is with almost everything : clothes, books, toys, Apple products, collectibles, furniture, flea market stuff,... And my second biggest addiction would be the Internet, or at least the  need of being connected all the time. I'm a big nerd...


What are you listening to at the moment ?

A bit of everything. It ranges from experimental to instrumental, movie scores or anything, really.
Nowadays I'm listening to my parent's old vinyls records that I kept since I'm a teenager. There's a bit of everything : Ennio Morricone, Francis Lai, Lalo Shiffrin, Beatles, Rolling Stones, Pink Floyd, Simon & Garfunkel, Christophe, …


Do all your tattoos have a meaning ?

I see them as body ornaments and I could not live without them. It's a bit like my glasses, I could not go out without them ! I try to get a tattoo in every country that I visit, like a non-erasable trace of my trip. For now, I have done it in Brussels, Tokyo, Vietnam and Singapore.
Above all it's the graphical and aesthetic aspect that prevails, but some of them represent my Chinese astrological sign (snake), my birth year, or quotes from people I like.


Any beauty trick ?

Fresh lemon juice, MSM (sulfur based) and fish oil pills in the morning, and green tea all day long.


What about your books ?

That's a tough one, there's so many of them I like...

A little History of the World, E.H. Gombrich
The Shadow of the Wind, Carlos Ruiz Zafon
Game of Thrones, George R.R. Martin
The Casual Vacancy, J.K. Rowling
Six Thinking Hats, Edward de Bono
The Secret History of the World, Jonathan Black
Les Animaux célèbres, Michel Pastoureau
The Library of Shadows, Mikkel Birkegaard
Parfum de Glace, Yoko Ogawa
La Marche de Mina, Yoko Ogawa
Totto-Chan, Tetsuko Kuroyanagi
Les Larmes jaunes du crocodile, Katherine Pancol 
La valse lente des tortues, Katherine Pancol 
Le Ciel t'aidera, Sylvie Testud
The Otori clan, Lian Hearn
Harry Potter, JK ROwling
Handcarved coffins, Truman Capote.


What can we find in your bag ?

I would rather say "my pockets" since I rarely have a bag, except when I travel. Otherwise you can find : an Iphone, a business-card holder, bankcard holder, a Labrador money clip I really like, a wallet,... and probably some Post-It because I'm «Miss Post-It» and there's too many things I want to do at once :-)


Your Movies ?

Takeshi Kitano's movies, Hayao Miyazaki, the Coen brothers, Hitchcock - Sergio Leone - Wong Kar Wai - Tsui Hark - Fritz Lang - Orson Welles - Ingmar Bergman – Jaco van Dormael – David Lynch…
And some old movies from the 20's until the 60's, movies from the golden age of French and Italian cinema.


Some good places in Brussels ?

Shopping
Since I came back to Brussels, I jumped back into the same patterns : All the shops at Dansaert avenue (Sandro, Maje, Kooples, Essentiel, Diesel, Canvas White, …), MAPP, , Icon, Filles à papa, Hunting & Collecting, Prive Joke, American Vintage, but also Zara, Pull & Bear, Cos, Bellerose,... As I was saying before, I mix styles. If I like what I see, I'll buy it, regardless of the brand ;-)

Restaurants
Kika, Publico, Thien Long, Ellis Burger, Fin de Siècle, Pataya, Casa Mia, Delicatessen, Viva M'Boma, …

Going out
Mainly at friend's places, but otherwise at Recyclart, Bazaar, Fuse, Mirano, gigs and  concerts, one-shot parties or summer festivals...


What are your favorite designers ?

Givenchy, Yves St Laurent, Balenciaga, Carven, Junya Watanabe, Natalia Brilli, Celine, Robert Clergerie, Henrik Vibskov, MAry Katrantzou, Anne Sofie Madsen, Jessica Leclere, Wackerhaus, Acne, Opening Ceremony, Coven


And favorite artists ?

Serge Lutens, Avedon, Annie Leibovitz, Irving Penn, Erwin Blumenfeld, Bela Borsodi, Diane Arbus, Roy Arden, Melvyn Sokolsky, Quentin Shih, 


Photography : Julie Calbert

vendredi 15 février 2013

KIMY G. LEJEUNE













Who are you ?

In 2008, after graduating at HELB in Public Relations, I moved to Ibiza where I met Neil, a tatoo artist, who also crafted some amazing jewels.
The transformation of raw material into beautiful jewelry is a noble activity and I'm fascinated by it. The realization that you don't need to be a professional jeweler to design a jewel collection also motivated me when I returned to Brussels. 
That is why I decided to enroll at Brussels's Arts et Metiers for a year, to step into the world of jewelry and understand the 
technical side of it. I then followed some private lessons. 
I understood very quickly that creating jewels was one thing, but including them in my own universe was as important.

What are your influences, or universes ?

The KMH world was created around me and my husband who, as I said before, is a tatoo artist. It is a black and white world, underground, luxurious but fragile at the same time.

We are following you since the beginning but you're already distributed in Paris by a famous brand and a celebrity recently bought one of your piece... 
How do you feel about that ?

As you mentioned, I just come back from Colette and they just sold a crucifix to Kanye West. Let's just say that it's a good start since the brand started in 2012 ;-). It's only the beginning and I've got very good news from the international market for 2013 as well. But i'm also very thankful to the 
Belgian shops (LOL, GLORYBOX, SMETS Premium and Irina Kha) who trusted the project and allowed me to sell my first creations. Those shops are quite well positioned on the market as well.

What is the role of fashion ?

I'm not a fashionista. I like what's beautiful and pure. I don't think I belong to a specific style. I could wear my husband's clothes one day, and a little FAP dress the next day. I don't follow trends and I don't put an expiry date on my wardrobe. 
I wear my clothes from one season to the next, according to my new creations ;-). That is also why I create timeless jewelry.

Can you describe your style ?

I like large and loose clothes, worn with more feminine pieces. 
I change quite often. According to what i feel like. Nothing is really planned.

Any addiction ?

I want to move out of Brussels, even if I really like this place. I think you need to move away from a place to better appreciate
it. And I would feel more inspired !

What music are you listening to at the moment ?

Léonard Cohen, « NEW SKIN FOR THE OLD CEREMONY » , a gift from my friend Steph, « Muzah ». In the morning I also listen to a mix done by the website "we are hunted" . It's alternative, rock and pop.

What about some beauty tricks ?

A freshly squeezed lemon in warm water and grapefruit juice in the morning. 
And for what it's worth, i feel like rest is the ultimate beauty trick !

Any books ?

I'm reading "A la recherche du temps perdu " from Marcel Proust. (I should have read it a long time ago). I also just finished "My Dear Bomb" from Yohji Yamamoto.

What could we find in your bag ?

Only the essential... be surrounded by so much crap as well !

What about your movies ?

« In the mood for love » from Wong Kar Wai, American beauty, Buffalo 66, Edward Scissorhands. I'm also a huge fan of the "Internal Affairs" trilogy.

What are your top notch addresses in Brussels ?

Shopping 
GLORYBOX, ICON, LOL,... Even if i do almost all my shopping 
abroad.

Food  
Let's start at "Franz", or the "Delecta" for a nice "warm up"
« L’idiot du village », the « Toucan sur mer » for the seafood assortments, and for lunch a pizza at « Mano à mano ». Oh yeah and « Mer du nord » for the shrimp croquettes. There's also a good Korean restaurant, MARU, that just opened on Waterloo Drive. And MAKISU (very good for their maki's)

Going out 
A drink at Franz. Or Mister Wong. To be honest I prefer to stay 
at friends's. I would rather go out when i'm not in Brussels.

What about your mentors ?

Patti Smith, Nico (the Velvet singer) Alison Mosshart.

Any favorite designer ?

Hedi Slimane, Rick Owens, Jean Cocteau (for his writting and his sculptures)
Franck Gehry (particularly the WEISMAN ART MUSEUM, a real light jewel). 
I would also like to talk about my web-designers at  "POPCORNMAKERS", who made my website inspired by my universe. Thanks guys. 
And of course "Filles a Papa" (ok they are my friends but I'm a huge fan).  They put a lot of energy into their collections. For me, FAP's creations have this craziness that you 
can recognize in East London, when you stroll about the Brick Lane market. 
They dare to go one step further, and it works.





Photography : Julie Calbert





lundi 19 novembre 2012

Frédéric della Faille - Checkthis


Pullover : COS


Pullover : Kenzo
Pant : Sandro


Pullover : Commune de Paris


Pullover : Stephan Schneider
Pant : COS
Shoes : Common Project


Pullover : Stephan Schneider

After spending my first personal shopping day with my old pal Frédéric, on visit in Brussels, I decided to interview him about his startup Checkthis he developed 4 months ago in New York.

Frédéric della Faille is one of the most experienced Belgian web designer. Coming from the graffiti world, he is building websites and such  since the nineties for various agencies. He then co-founded and managed Bureau347 during 10 years. Big product lover, he decided to quit everything -- including his sport car -- to focus all his time on Checkthis, a revolutionary publishing platform listed as one of the top 25 New York City startups to watch.

So, who are you?

I'm Frédéric della Faille, the founder and designer of Checkthis. I started to express my creativity on walls by doing graffitis in the early nineties. I was then a really bad student and very often out painting at nights.

It took me 7 years to complete 3 years before dropping out college. Then I did two years in Typography at La Cambre but that was again too academical, so I started to play with Photoshop and internet in 1996. I directly felt deeply in love with the instantaneity of updating a website in minutes, no print process, no ink, no paper, just update your HTML and upload it to your server. So I dropped out of La Cambre and found a job as web designers, then got more responsibilities and ended-up managing a team at 23 years old. I then co-founded and managed Bureau347 during 10 years, a digital communication agency in Brussels.

How did you come up with the idea of Checkthis, especially since social websites like Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, etc already existed on the market?

Every day, I have quick things to share with friends and family. A new idea, a quick message, and plenty of other things that do not fit in a tweet or a status on Facebook, and that certainly don't require a blog or a full website. And it seems I'm not the only one. Jean Montevideo,a musician friend (with a big fan-base) called me more than 3 years ago to ask how to share his latest music video and some info on a nice background. Not a full website or a blog that would need updating. He just wanted to share a clean and simple page instantly on Facebook and Twitter. I realized there was no answer. No one had built it. So I created Checkthis.

Checkthis is the perfect companion of social networks. It allows
you to add more content, change the look of it, and share it with your friends or followers.

The biggest difference with Tumblr is that a blog is like a book,
every post is a page of this book while Checkthis is the best platform to share a powerful and visually effective message. Today people use Checkthis to share a party invite, to setup a quick poll, to show a creative project, or even to sell stuff -- like I did with all my belongings when leaving to New York.

How did you create the design?
The design of Checkthis is a never-ending process. When you're building a product you are never happy with how it looks and how it works. But you make it the best you can. Then you look at how people use it and interact with it (in fact, mostly where they are stuck), and you go back to your draft and design a better solution for these specific weakness you didn't thought of.
That said, I mostly try to un-design our product. Every time I succeed to remove a button, an effect or a step, I feel way better. It's not an art, it's not a science, it really is what designing is all about.

Do you consider yourself a geek?


I'm a geek and I'm not a geek. I don't know what a geek is. Are these ladies playing with their iPhone sending tweets, instagramming their food, or asking friend's advices on this or that geeks? I think most of us are geeks, and that's a huge opportunity for anyone building a consumer product.


Is there a recipe for success for Checkthis and your venture in New York City?
Things are going great for Checkthis. New York will allow us to go one step further in the media world by closing deals with big companies. I also have access to a bunch of super smart people that made it, people who got millions of users or sold companies for tens of millions of dollars. For example I have a CEO coach who I meet once a week, a young but extremely brilliant guy who made tons of millions and who believe so hard in what we're doing.I can't imagine that in Belgium, but I may be wrong.

New York is also super inspiring, people understand mobile. I mean everyone understand mobile there. They are out most of the nights so it's impossible to not having a smart phone and sending emails, looking at Maps, using some apps. This is exactly the kind of people who inspire us to work harder and building a valuable product that fits their busy lives. Creative people who go out, and New York is full of these.

So when will we see a Checkthis App?

Our iPhone app starts to look not too bad. It works, it's fun, we
still have some work to do but it will be out in December. I
really hope that all my Belgians friends will play with it so we can stay connected in a much more creative way that we can do now with apps like Facebook or Instagram. We'll keep you posted :-)



Visit checkthis

Follow Frédéric on Twitter



Photography : Julie Calbert
Stylism/Personal shopping : Camille Valère-Gille
Thanks to "Le Delecta"

mardi 2 octobre 2012

KIM MEE HYE














What made you feel like designing jewelry ?

The meeting, in Ibiza, of a person who mixed good taste and craftsmanship, with finesse and character. I found a source of inspiration in that person's creations. The transformation of raw materials into jewelry is a noble form of art that fascinated me right away. That is why, when I came back to Belgium, I decided to follow a training, to set one foot in the world of the precious, Very quickly I decided to specialize in jewelry design, because what I liked above all, it is the creativity and ideas. Attention to details, patience and techniques were acquired during my workshop time.


What are your sources of inspiration ?

My daily life, my friends and travel. I am surrounded by creative friends that inspire my daily life and therefore the KMH universe. My husband is a tattoo artist and because we're very interested in each others' world, we influence each others' work quite a lot. This creative process is repeated with all things in life and every sincere encounter crossing my path. 


What does jewelry represents for you ?

Jewelery is way more than just a prop, it represents a part of you and you have the choice to show it  off or not. I'm touched by the fragility and hidden parts of things, People love it when everything is revealed, but I’m not like that. There's a certain part of confidentiality in GOLD's jewels, represented by KMH


The GOLD collection has to be seen as a day to day thing. The collection enjoys the luxury of being wearable in all situations, even if it needs to be discreet. Those are rough and have raw shapes, but never extravagant in the way it was crafted. I'm someone who does not always take the time to associate things together, and therefor it seemed obvious to me that jewelry needs to adapt to us and not the opposite.

Do you feel close to the universe or your Filles à Papa's friends ?

FAP remixes classics and ways of life. They allow girls to have fun without waiting for the fever of the night. There are no rules, everything is allowed and yet everything is sincere. I feel very close to them as a brand, as I’m their number one fan. For me, dressing up is a way of expressing myself. And as I told you earlier, I find my inspiration in my daily life. And they are part of it. ;-)

KIM MEE HYE - Offical 

Facebook
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mardi 26 juin 2012

A/W 2012 Piece d'Anarchive - Interview

 Model : Natalia Vodianova
 Photography : Paolo Roversi 

Hello,
I am very happy and proud to present you today the interview of the three creators of the prestigious parisian brand "Piece d'Anarachive" covering their winter collection.
I hope to hear from them again soon.
Enjoy.

C.
Français : 

Comment a été accueillie votre première collection ?

La première collection à reçu un très bon accueil puisque nous avons eu de belles retombées presse (toutes visibles sur notre site www.piecedanarchive.com), et que nous avons commencé une distribution dans 7 boutiques prestigieuses parmi lesquelles Colette et Montaigne Market à Paris, Corso Como à Milan, Blake à Chicago, Just one Eye à Los Angeles, et Susan à San Francisco.
Nous ne pouvions espérer mieux puisque notre objectif est de séduire cette clientèle haut de gamme.
Nous serons d'ailleurs présentes chez Sien à Anvers pour notre 2ème collection automne/hiver.


Paolo Roversi signe une deuxième campagne pour vous, comment s'est passé le shooting avec Natalia Vodianova ?

Nous sommes encore un peu jeune pour envisager une campagne, mais c'est vrai que Paolo nous soutient depuis 2 saisons en collaborant sur notre dossier de presse.
C'est une très jolie rencontre! Au fil de nos conversations sur le shooting de la 2ème collection, nous avons évoqué Natalia (amie de Paolo), sans même oser imaginer que cela puisse se réaliser un jour. Natalia à accepté de nous rencontrer et de poser pour nous. C'était très émouvant de la voir se prendre au jeu et évoluer dans nos vêtements le jour du shooting. Le résultat est bien au delà de nos espérances pour une deuxième collection. Nous sommes conscientes de la chance que nous avons de commencer avec de tels atouts.



En quoi diffère votre nouvelle collection ?

La seconde collection A/H 2012 est née du mariage dissident entre l'esthétique de Madmax et la délicatesse des fleurs asiatiques. Elle puise son écriture dans la rencontre de matériaux forts (cuir matelassé, passepoil en rainure, zip métallique, clous, maille rendu Néoprène) avec des textures fines et des détails subtilement féminins (motif floral traduit en jacquard cloqué, laine mérinos, mohair moelleux, bas de jupe en corolle).
Un peu plus étoffé que le chapitre 1, le second opus intègre 24 nouveaux design,  principalement en maille. Notre langage se développe cependant autour d'une nouvelle matière: le cuir, avec quatre pièces travaillées en agneau plongé et intégrant des ceintures en smoke.

English : 
 How was welcomed your first collection ?


The first collection received a warm welcome for we had a very good press coverage (all readable on our website  www.piecedanarchive.com), and we began distribution in seven prestigious boutiques including Colette and Montaigne Market in Paris, Corso Como in Milan, Blake in Chicago, Just one Eye in Los Angeles, and Susan in San Francisco. We couldn't hope for a better start, since our goal was to appeal to an upscale clientele. We will also be present at Sien, in Antwerp, for our second Fall/Winter collection.

Paolo Rovesi signed for a second campaign with you, how was the shooting with Natalia Vodianova ?

We still consider ourselves a little bit too young to consider a campaign, but it is true that Paolo supported us for two consecutive seasons by collaborating on our press releases.

It was a wonderful encounter. As we were discussing about the shooting of the second collection, we mentioned Natalia (Paolos's friend), without even daring to imagine that this could actually happen one day. Natalia agreed to meet us and then posed for us. It was very emotional to see her getting involved in the project and strolling in our cloth line on the day of the shoot.

The results are far beyond our expectations for a second collection and we are aware of the amazing opportunity to start with such assets.


What differs in your new collection ?

The second Fall/Winter 2012 collection is born from the maverick  union between the Mad Max aesthetic and the fineness of asian flowers. The collection draws its writing in the merge of strong materials (quilted leather, style line piping, metallic zippers, nails, mesh with Neoprene rendering) together with delicate textures and subtle feminine details (floral patterns embossed on jacquard matelassé, mérinos wool, mellow mohair, corolla hemmed skirt). A bit more fleshed out than the first chapter, the second opus consist of 24 new designs, mainly made out of mesh. Our grammar, however, develops itself around a new material, leather, with four crafted pieces of lambskin with integrated smoked leather belts.
 



dimanche 3 juin 2012

Opening Vega salon













Today was held the opening of the Vega hairdressing salon.
It's important to me because it is the fulfillment of my two friends, lovers in real life and great hairdressers which are Anthony and Massimo.
Vintage and futuristic atmosphere at the same time, which perfectly corresponds to their own image.
Tested and approved.
C.

Photography : Tine Claerhout
19 rue de l'Ecuyer, 1000 Brussels, Belgium